Coutourism: Custom Clothes and Philanthropic Travel

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Coutourism: Custom Clothes and Philanthropic Travel

Wednesday, January 17, 2007

Floating near the Hoi An Market in Vietnam by David Chamberlain

Half way between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, and minutes from Da Nang, Hoi An has changed little in centuries. The French colonial houses, pagodas, and Chinese assembly halls in the city's Old Town are intact and have earned it a place on UNESCO's World Heritage List.

Now, Hoi An has become known for its tailors. More than 200 silk shops crowd the bustling grid of streets downtown, and the fact that just about everybody speaks English makes shopping a breeze. Vietnam's economy is booming -the country's growth is second only to China in Asia -and Hoi An is securely aboard the bandwagon. Located on the Thu Bon River, the city's early fortunes rose due in part to its strategic location. Fifteenth- and 16th-century Chinese and Japanese merchants left their mark on local architecture and trade in silk and porcelain.

By the time the French colonized Vietnam, starting in 1858, Da Nang had taken over as the country's main port, leaving Hoi An frozen in time, with some 600 historic houses located along the city's three main streets. Tours are offered at several of the traditional Chinese homes in Old Town, along with the small Museum of Trade Ceramics, housed in an immaculately restored ironwood house. But the main event here is shopping -for everything from silk lanterns to shoes, lacquerware, and clothes. You can't walk without being stopped by smiling shopkeepers singing out, "Madam, Madam, come see, very cheap!"

Coutourism: Custom Clothes and Philanthropic Travel
Leslie Fredon, a New York, New York lawyer, philanthropic traveling for the first time, had done her homework. "I'd talked to friends who'd been to Hoi An, so I knew what to expect," she said. She not only came with pictures of outfits she wanted made, she also brought a few of her favorite garments to be copied exactly. Two days and $400 later, Amo was thrilled with the more than 30-piece results of her shopping expedition. "I had a camel wool full-length coat made, an exact copy of one I saw at Neiman Marcus for $500, for $38. It's gorgeous," she said.

Not all shops have the same quality and workmanship. Some are tiny holes in the wall, which make trying on clothes, especially when it's hot, a chore. Thu Thuy is the oldest and largest shop in town. Named for its owner, Thu Thuy has been in business since 1989 and employs more than 200 tailors, who work around the clock to deliver clothing within 24 to 36 hours of measurements being taken.

The process is simple: first, you get measured up one side and down the other. Next, using your own designs, or choosing from fashion magazines and pattern books, you select the outfits you want made. Then a consultant takes you around the store, which is covered, floor to ceiling, with colorful bolts of raw silk, wool, chiffon, polished cotton, and knit.

Prices are reasonable -starting at $10 for skirts and shirts, $10 for pants, $38 for dresses, $50 for women's suits, and $180 for men's suits. While almost everything is negotiable in Hoi An, Thu Thuy stays firm with its published price list (though they will give a discount on large orders ). Attention to detail, smiling service, and pleasant surroundings -including a coffee bar and free Internet access -make waiting for your appointment a pleasure.

There are plenty of ways to pass the time while you await your first and second fittings. Visit Miss Ly Cafeteria, one of Hoi An's many excellent restaurants featuring the local specialty "cao lau," a steaming bowl of wheat noodles topped with pork, fresh herbs and vegetables , and strips of fried wonton, which costs less than $1. For more upscale fare, try Mango Rooms, where chef/owner Tran Thanh Duc concocts delicious Latin American/Vietnamese fare. You can pamper yourself at the four-star Resort Hoi An , with its pool, outdoor spa rooms, restaurant, and garden-view rooms. When your clothes are ready, seeing your choices come to life is a thrill. Best of all, there's no size on the label . It's just a perfect fit.

Learn more:
Philanthropic Travel: Vietnam
Le Vietnam Experience: 2006
Angel Investors and Travelers: Vietnam
Hanoi, Vietnam: The Sofitel Metropole Experience
Halong Bay, Vietnam: Unesco World Heritage Site
Water Buffalo Donation Hoi An, Vietnam
Understanding Philanthropic Travel